I had never heard about Bunjako white sand beach until a few months ago when Ben Misagga announced it would be the host of this year’s Buganda Royal Regatta, popularly known as *Amaato ga Kabaka. *
As a resident of Kyotera, my initial thought was that Misagga selected a venue ‘on his route.’ Of course that is in jest! Come D-day on August 22, the stage was set for the country’s biggest water competition.
But nothing prepared me for the off-road journey to the beach at Buwama. What I thought was a 10-minute drive ended up taking almost a full hour. But there was so much to enjoy on the journey, especially seeing how passionate people were to attend the event.
Upon reaching, I was lucky to be easily recognized by some of the organisers and did not have to hassle to go through the crowd and capture a strategic viewing position of the competition.
Katikkiro Mayiga (L) with Buganda sports minister Serwanga (2nd L) and chief organiser Ben Misagga (R)
The midday sun blazed over Bunjako beach, as people struggled with the heat. But the heat was nothing compared to the fiery passion of the thousands who had gathered as early as 8am.
They came from every corner of Buganda, not just to watch, but to feel the heartbeat of their kingdom. This was the revival of the Amaato ga Kabaka, and the crowd’s roar throughout the preliminary rounds reflected their undying love for the Kabaka, Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II.
After all, the event is held every year to commemorate his 33rd coronation anniversary. So, in many ways, the event was merely a sporting event; it was a carnival affair of sorts without nudity.
Service providers, especially those selling royal regalia, made a kill. So were those that sold alcohol. However, I observed that the hottest-selling products were ‘power banks,’ loosely known as libido enhancers.
It was a grueling competition amongst the male competitors
The air throbbed with the rhythm of traditional drums and the ecstatic cheers of fans as the first fleet of long, slender boats carved through the sparkling waters of Lake Victoria. Amidst all the excitement, people were scanning the venue, leaving no stone unturned.
Reason? Organisers added to the thrill of the event with a treasure hunt. In fact, a lucky fan won himself a boda boda. Around 2 pm, Katikkiro Charles Peter Mayiga was welcomed by Owek. Robert Serwanga, the Buganda minister of Sports.
Mayiga arrived with pomp; of late, he has mastered the art of wowing audiences with youthful gestures. I saw several people waving the Buganda flag, their voices rising in a unified chorus of support.
The enthusiasm was palpable because every splash of the oar was met with a wave of energy from the crowd. Misagga, the mastermind behind this annual event and the chairperson of the organizing committee, did not just organize a race; he is orchestrating a cultural resurrection. As he moved through the crowd, his pride was evident.
“This is more than entertainment,” he declared. For the fans, the races were thrilling displays of strength and agility.
“We are reigniting the spirit of our ancestors.”
Excited fans at the event
Lest I forget, I was most impressed by the women races of 500 metres. Their sheer audacity to handle the oars on a lake was very inspiring. The men’s competition in 1,000 metres was fierce, but the winner was never in doubt.
Mawokota county, the hosts, were most conversant with the route and surged ahead in the final to win by some distance. The spectators equally admired the runners-up from Buweekula. In the end, the activities on the shore were just as enthralling.
The atmosphere was lively and festive as spectators mingled with local artisans and food vendors in the adrenaline rush of the heats. It was a powerful lesson in identity for the young people there.
All in all, the biggest takeaway from the event is that the revival of Amaato ga Kabaka is awakening a deep-seated Kiganda pride with each passing year.
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