Moscow, from the Russia-Africa Summit sidelines

MOSCOW – Unlike Uganda and many other African countries in the tropics, where temperatures are generally warm throughout the year, Moscow, Russia’s capital, offers a different experience.

Residents wrap themselves in heavy winter jackets to brave the biting cold as they go about their daily activities. African journalists who travelled to Moscow to cover the third RussiaAfrica Summit were not spared the chilly weather; they had to improvise, finding ways to keep warm while fulfilling their duty of reporting on the high-level gathering.

Beyond the cold, Moscow offered a glimpse into Russia’s history, culture and technological advancement, from the grandeur of the Kremlin to the efficiency of its underground metro system.

Senate Palace

About five kilometres from my hotel, the Azimut Olympic Hotel, lies the historic Kremlin complex, near Red Square. Eager to experience Russia’s celebrated historical landmarks, I made my way to the Kremlin, where centuries of political, religious and cultural history are preserved in imposing buildings, cathedrals and monuments.

The Kremlin is more than an architectural landmark but a symbol of Russian power and identity, with a history stretching back to the 12th century. Its buildings and monuments tell stories of rulers, wars, religion and the evolution of a country whose cultural heritage is shaped by more than 150 ethnic groups.

A guided tour of the Kremlin offered an opportunity to appreciate this rich heritage. The complex stands out against the Moscow skyline, with the Moskva River flowing along its southern walls, adding to the beauty of the historic site.

Before the tour, we were treated to a ceremonial parade at Cathedral Square by members of the Presidential Regiment featuring mounted guards and foot guards demonstrating specialised weapon-handling skills, accompanied by a military band whose performance added colour and elegance to the occasion.

The ceremony provided a glimpse into the traditions through which Russia preserves its history and honours its institutions. Cathedral Square is surrounded by three prominent cathedrals: the Cathedral of the Dormition, also known as the Assumption Cathedral; the Cathedral of the Archangel; and the Cathedral of the history.

The Assumption Cathedral served as the principal church for the coronation of Russian rulers, while the Archangel Cathedral became the burial place of several tsars and grand princes.

The Annunciation Cathedral was closely associated with the religious life of the royal family. Together, the cathedrals demonstrate the historical relationship between the Russian state, the monarchy and the Orthodox Church.

Tsar Cannon

The Kremlin complex also houses the Senate building, which serves as the office of Russian President Vladimir Putin. The building has a long association with the country’s political leadership and reflects the Kremlin’s continuing role as the centre of power.

Nearby stands the Arsenal building, where thousands of captured cannons and other military trophies are displayed. Many of the cannons are associated with Russia’s military campaigns, including the defeat and retreat of Napoleon Bonaparte’s forces during the 1812 invasion.

The collection includes weapons originating from France, Italy and other European countries. A short distance from Cathedral Square are two other remarkable exhibits: the Tsar Bell and the Tsar Cannon.

The Tsar Bell weighs about 200 tonnes and is widely regarded as the world’s largest bell, although it has never rung. The Tsar Cannon, meanwhile, is a celebrated example of Russian artillery craftsmanship.

The monuments offer a reminder of Russia’s military history and the importance the country attaches to preserving its past. Later in the evening, we were treated to Russian music by the 215-year-old Kuban Cossack Choir at the theatre within Kremlin.

**THE METRO EXPERIENCE **

When I arrived at Domodedovo Airport, I had little idea of what to expect from Moscow beyond what I had read or seen in pictures.

The Azimut Olympic hotel, located along Olimpiyskiy Prospekt, became my temporary home as I prepared to cover the third Russia-Africa Summit. During the first five days, transport arrangements took me to the International Press Centre, the Kremlin and other venues associated with the summit.

I had little opportunity to explore the city independently. Moscow, however, presented a striking contrast to Kampala. In Uganda’s capital, pedestrians, roadside vendors, taxis and buses are a familiar feature of daily life.

Moscow also experiences heavy road traffic, but much of its urban movement takes place beneath the streets, where the metro railway system connects residents to different parts of the city.

My first real test of the system came on the final day of the summit. After leaving the Kremlin area, my Rwandan colleague and I had to find our way from Gostiny Dvor to the Kitay-Gorod metro station.

What appeared to be a straightforward journey turned into an exercise in patience, largely because of the language barrier. Neither of us spoke Russian well enough to ask for directions confidently.

Fortunately, ChatGPT came to our rescue. I used it to translate an English request for directions into Russian, which I then showed to people we met along the way. Even then, the journey was not easy.

For more than 30 minutes at the station, we struggled to establish which entrance to use and which metro line would take us in the right direction. Some of the people we approached appeared to give us conflicting directions, adding to our confusion.

Eventually, a young woman came to our assistance and guided us to Entrance 10. From there, we boarded the Kaluzhsko-Rizhskaya Line, travelling in the direction of Medvedkovo to Prospekt Mira station.

It was a small encounter, but one that reminded me how a simple act of kindness can make a difference to a visitor navigating an unfamiliar city. At the station, passengers used metro cards to pay their fares before descending underground on long escalators to the train platforms.

The Russia-Africa Summit will take place in Russia next week

The escalators carried commuters deep below street level, revealing the decades-old transport system that many Moscow residents rely on every day. The trains were frequent and efficient.

We did not have to wait long before one arrived to pick up passengers and continue along the route. For a visitor accustomed to Kampala’s public transport system – or lack of one – the difference was striking.

In Kampala, passengers travelling in taxis or buses often have to call out their destinations or shout, “Nviramu awo!” meaning “that is my stop!” to alert the driver or conductor.

Moscow’s metro operates differently, automated announcements inform passengers of approaching stations, while the system’s established routes make it possible to travel across the city without negotiating with a driver or conductor.

The experience also revealed a different side of urban life. Inside the train, most passengers remained quiet, concentrating on their mobile phones or their own activities. There was little of the conversation and spontaneous interaction commonly encountered on public transport in Uganda.

My Rwandan colleague and I were among the few people talking, switching between Luganda and St. Basil’s Cathedral of the Archangel Kinyarwanda as we discussed the experience.

We occasionally looked around, taking in the surroundings and trying to understand the city through African eyes. As the only black passengers we could readily identify in our immediate surroundings, we were conscious of the curious glances directed our way.

It was difficult to tell what people were thinking, but our presence appeared to attract some attention. Eventually, we reached our destination and ascended from the underground station to the street.

From there, we continued our journey to the hotel, arriving about 20 minutes later. What began as a confusing search for the correct entrance and train line had turned into an experience that ffered a closer look at how Moscow works and how beautiful the metro is.

**MOSCOW: A CLEAN CITY WHERE NATURE MEETS MODERNITY **

Beyond its reputation as Russia’s political and economic capital, Moscow stands out for its cleanliness, green spaces and apparent commitment to keeping the city orderly.

Trees line the streets, while rivers weave through the city, adding a touch of nature to its modern urban landscape. The greenery provides a refreshing contrast to the busy roads, tall buildings and constant movement of people going about their daily activities.

Unlike many other major cities around the world, where traffic congestion often brings impatience and disorder, Moscow presents a different picture. Motorists appear patient, with drivers generally taking turns rather than aggressively competing to get ahead.

Traffic police officers are also rarely visible on the roads, at least in the areas I visited. The city’s cleanliness is equally striking. Rubbish is hardly noticeable on the streets, and even a stray piece of paper is difficult to find.

The few visible signs of litter are often fallen leaves from trees lining the roads, as autumn came to a close and winter set in. Before 8am, cleaning vehicles can be seen washing the streets as workers prepare the city for another day of activity.

This raises an important question for cities elsewhere, including Kampala: what can be learnt from Moscow’s approach to public cleanliness and urban management? For me, Moscow was not just a destination for covering an international summit.

It was a city where history is preserved in grand buildings and monuments, while modern transport systems keep millions of people moving.

[email protected]

The post Moscow, from the Russia-Africa Summit sidelines appeared first on The Observer Media Ltd.